Image Copyright Yellowj, 2011 Used under license from Shutterstock.com; Image Copyright Monkey Business Images, 2011 Used under license from Shutterstock.com

I've just got back from holiday in France - I love the place. The food, the wine, the women, the ooh la la, all of it. But I'm now slightly obsessed with cheese. What other ingredient can be slipped into so many recipes? It's in everything, from cheese cake to macaroni and cheese, it's the crowning glory of a good ol' cheese burger and without cheese dip there's no chips and dip. Cheese has everything - versatility and variety. So let me tell you all about what cheese is, how cheese is made, the different types of cheese there are, what to eat and drink with cheese and why the best cheese isn't made in a cheese factory.
How cheese is made
As with many things, making cheese is best left to the experts. But if you're trying to impress a date, a little knowledge goes a long way. The basics of making cheese are pretty much the same the world over:
- Milk is prepared and coagulated to extract the water or whey from the milk, leaving the milk solids (curd) behind;
- The curds are cut and moulded into shape;
- They might be salted and pressed; and
- Either sold or ripened by storing for a while.
That's it. Pretty simple really. With thousands of different cheeses, all the variety comes from what's done around those principles.
The different types of cheese
There's no definitive list of cheese types. I'm not really into labels. But the categories can help focus on what you do and don't like. Here's what I ask myself:
- What is its texture? - Is it soft and spoonable? Soft and spreadable? Semi-hard? Or hard?
- How strong is the smell and flavour? - Older ones generally smell stronger.
- What is the rind like? - Is there a white or 'bloomy' mould? Is it a harder rind, wax even?
- What animal has the milk come from? - Cow, sheep or goat?
With that nailed, it's time to travel the world. Through cheese.
Cheeses from around the world
Like champagne, some of the best things in life come from just one place. Cheese is no different. Regional cheeses like buffalo mozzarella can only be made in Campana, Italy. Their names are protected. They might just come from one region, or one country. But the PDO label is a sign of quality. Sure, you can buy Australian feta, but it's not the real deal - it's not from Greece. And why bother with imitations?
So if you want Parmesan, it has to be from Parmigiano-Reggiano, Italy. For English stilton, it really ought to be stilton or a cheddar from Cheddar, England. For brie, it should at least be French, preferably a Brie de Meaux from the Champagne region. It's about ingredients and quality.
How to enjoy cheese
A cream cheese bagel is a world-class dish. With or without the smoked salmon (Scottish or Scandinavian, ideally). Cream cheese is also the key ingredient in a cheese cake. Or try mozzarella in your lasagne recipe or on your pizza. Hot or cold, it's a real treat.
Look after your cheese:
- Store between 8 and 15 degrees centigrade at around 80% humidity. That means not in your fridge, but a cool part of your home - a cellar or salad drawer of your fridge.
- Wrap in wax paper, ideally. Avoid cling film which makes it sweat.
- When you're ready to serve your cheese, give it an hour or two to come up to room temperature.
What to eat and drink with cheese
Crackers are a classic pairing, as is a crusty, rustic bread. Or forget the accompaniment and eat with a knife and fork. A little chutney, grapes or jams like fig, quince and damson and you're cooking with gas. A few grapes or celery for bite work well too.
Ports and red wines are a classic partner, but they don't work for me. Try a dessert wine like Sauternes or sweeter, floral whites like a Muscadet. Or pair with a good woman and a new fondue set. Or is it the other way around?