I’m in Paris to visit my ex-boyfriend Jean-Paul for a couple of days and there is one thing I have learnt today - there's little point trying to reserve a table in a popular local restaurant in Paris, especially if you're not a local and particularly if you can’t speak French.

I attempted just such a feat earlier today and despite my protestations and best flirting techniques, it wasn't until Jean-Paul turned up that the proprietor's face suddenly softened and he miraculously managed to find our reservation. No matter: we got in, eventually. And it was certainly worth it, the tiny bistro Robert et Louise served up the best hunk of meat I’ve had in a long time (including Jean-Paul!). Great steaks, cooked over hot coals, at seriously sensible prices. What is not to love?

After sating my inner caveman, I have decided to play tourist much to Jean-Paul’s dismay - being a native Parisian means he is far too cool to play along but I am determined to carry on regardless.

First on my agenda: The Eiffel Tower of course! The best views of Paris from the Eiffel Tower are on the second level - you’re high enough up to see the stunning panorama of the Paris skyline, yet, not too high - so you can still easily recognise most Paris landmarks without using a map. After taking in the vista at this level we decide to go up. We skip the elevator and take the stairs (all 704 of them!) and do you know what? The climb isn’t as bad as you’d think it would be and we saved ourselves €5 in the process and bypassed the massive lines for the elevators.

Next on my ‘tourist to-do list’ is Le Centre Pompidou - it is a necessity to visit Le Centre Pompidou when you are in Paris. The building of leisure and culture has a large collection of contemporary art shown in an old baroque building, but it is very modern with large windows and gigantic escalators which can bring you to the top of the roof, the 6th floor gives an amazing view over Paris. I feel I could stay up there and people watch all day.

After visiting both of these destinations, I feel that I have worked up enough of an appetite to visit Ladurée for a well-earned macaroon! “Like being inside a Fabergé egg” is the comparison made by various guide books. Jean-Paul point blank refuses to go (in as polite a manner as possible) claiming that there are much better places for a macaroon and more to the point, it has been co-opted by fashionistas. I protest that this is exactly why we must go. All I get for my trouble is a raised eyebrow. We instead go to the Häagen-Dazs shop on the Avenue Champs Elysées which sells the most amazing macaroon ice cream. Heavenly.

Jean-Paul has a business meeting, so leaves me to my own devices and I battle with myself between fashion and culture. The latter wins out and I head to the Musée d'Orsay to look at the Impressionists and then stop in at the Shakespeare & Company bookstore, a literary shop and reading library which manages to combine modernity and antique charm.

After flexing my brain I decided to reward myself by hopping on the Metro up to the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré for some Hermès appreciation.

Jean-Paul calls to see if I want to meet up for an afternoon aperitif. He has finally conceded and has decided to help me fulfil my tourist day by suggesting we meet at The Bar Hemingway at the Ritz. Overpriced drinks in a bar smaller than my chest and yet was amazing. Wooden-panelling, black and white photos, leather chairs and cocktails with a steely kick. Parfait!

We are both a little fuzzy when we leave, so we decided to go for dinner to soak up some of the alcohol. We head to Le Fumior, located just behind the Louvre. I fall in love with it instantly. It’s lovely and dark and atmospheric but still has that je nais se quoi about it. I tuck into slow cooked lamb and a huge selection of stinking cheese. It’s delicious.
 
After dinner we call it a night and as we walk down the Rui de Rivoli, towards the Metro, I contemplate a work transfer to France…